西国庭園巡り・和歌山編(前編)。琴ノ浦温山荘園、養翠園、和歌山城 西之丸庭園(紅葉渓庭園)、六三園…と和歌山や海南市黒江の町並み
西国庭園巡り・和歌山編。徳島編はこちら。和歌山編が意外とボリューミーだったので前半・後半に分けました(意外とボリューミーなのは主に前半!)。和歌山のレンタサイクルはJR和歌山駅で朝9時から…なのだけど、ホテルで100円で自転車を貸してくれたので朝8時から行動開始。自転車通学の高校生と並んで自転車走らせて、一体どこへ向かっているんだろうと思ったね(二重の意味で)。和歌山市へ来たのは約3年ぶり。やはり冬場だったので当時の庭園の写真がイマイチだったこと、あとは前回は休園中だった「琴ノ浦温山荘園」へ行くことが目的。まずは和歌山駅から約10kmの温山荘園へ。
琴ノ浦温山荘園
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![f:id:airgyan:20161026220810j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026220810j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026220810.jpg)
![f:id:airgyan:20161026220811j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026220811j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026220811.jpg)
国指定名勝。和歌山市の隣・海南市にある庭園(ほぼ街の境で和歌山の中心から10km程。ポルトヨーロッパの近く)。前回来た時は冬季休業中で見れなかった場所。ゴムベルトを開発した実業家の別荘として作られた庭園で「温山荘園」の名付け親は東郷平八郎。現在は埋め立てられてしまってポルトヨーロッパなどができたけど、かつてはこの庭園の向こう側は海だったんだって。敷地内にある山にトンネルが掘られていて、抜けたらプライベートビーチ…なのだけど今はその先には道路が。
oniwa.garden
海南市黒江の町並み
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![f:id:airgyan:20161026215509j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026215509j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026215509.jpg)
![f:id:airgyan:20161026215513j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026215513j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026215513.jpg)
![f:id:airgyan:20161026215510j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026215510j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026215510.jpg)
![f:id:airgyan:20161026215511j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026215511j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026215511.jpg)
![f:id:airgyan:20161026215512j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026215512j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026215512.jpg)
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![f:id:airgyan:20161026215521j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026215521j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026215521.jpg)
![f:id:airgyan:20161026215515j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026215515j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026215515.jpg)
![f:id:airgyan:20161026215516j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026215516j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026215516.jpg)
![f:id:airgyan:20161026215517j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026215517j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026215517.jpg)
![f:id:airgyan:20161026215518j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026215518j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026215518.jpg)
![f:id:airgyan:20161026215522j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026215522j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026215522.jpg)
前回温山荘園へ来た時は気付かなかった…というより「町並み」に興味が無かったのだけど、温山荘園の前に「←黒江の町並み」という案内があることに目が行った(それ以前にその辺に文化財建築がある、というのは調べてあったんだけど)。案内板があるぐらいの町並みなら結構古くて良い感じなのでは、と足を伸ばしたら期待通りの古い町並みが。黒江は日本の漆器四大産地の一つだそう。この町に遊廓があったのなら建物が残っていても不思議ではなさそうだな――なんて思いながら、後ろも詰まっていたので温山荘園へ向かってしまったのだけれど、ネットで検索するとやはり黒江の方にもあったようだ(あと海南市にももう一箇所遊廓があったとも)。どの辺にあったんだろうな…温山荘園の東側に旅館が固まってるエリアがあるけど。
養翠園
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国指定名勝。これは前回和歌山市へ来た時以来の再訪で今回の旅では栗林公園と同じぐらい再訪したかった場所。紀州徳川家の大名庭園。ここは浜離宮と並んで海から水を引き入れる汐入の池泉庭園の代表的存在で、こちらは借景の山も素晴らしい。
oniwa.garden
和歌の浦
![f:id:airgyan:20161026215459j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026215459j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026215459.jpg)
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![f:id:airgyan:20161026215501j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026215501j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026215501.jpg)
![f:id:airgyan:20161026220812j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026220812j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026220812.jpg)
和歌山市の南西部は「和歌の浦」として国指定名勝の景勝地。風景というか町並みというか、どの辺が和歌の浦というとよくわからないんだけど、海の風景は綺麗だし不老橋や三断橋はなんかそれらしい雰囲気がある。和歌の浦入口からは古い家並みも続く。
和歌山城 西之丸庭園(紅葉渓庭園)
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国指定名勝。作庭は今回の旅で名古屋城二之丸庭園や徳島城の庭園を見た上田宗箇。名前の通り紅葉の時期にきれいなのですが紅葉にはまだまだ。和歌山城はやはりお城だからか他の庭園と違って平日の昼間から人が多かった(外国人観光客も意外と多かった。けどお城に引きがあるんだろう)。以下は二之丸庭園。
oniwa.garden六三園(旧松井家別邸)
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文化遺産オンラインの地図で見てて登録有形文化財が集中しているエリアに行ったらこの庭園があった。「旧松井家別邸」として色んな建物が国登録有形文化財になっていて(当地の実業家の別邸。庭園も良いけど赤塀や煉瓦の給水塔が素敵)、現在は「がんこ和歌山六三園」としてレストランになっています。京都の高瀬川二条苑と同じレストランですね。
oniwa.garden
和歌山市の登録有形文化財建築など。
和歌山県庁舎本館
和歌山市内その他
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![f:id:airgyan:20161026222307j:image f:id:airgyan:20161026222307j:image](https://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/a/airgyan/20161026/20161026222307.jpg)
美術館は黒川紀章設計。んで上に書いた六三園含め、和歌山市堀止のあたりは登録有形文化財も多く、他にも大きな家屋が多く寺町もこの辺にある。かつての和歌山の町というのは和歌山城から南西の方角へ(海、港に向けて)形成されていて、南海・JRの駅は両方町外れに出来たんだなあ…と思った。和歌の浦一帯も広い住宅地として栄えていることや養翠園の位置もしっくり来る。